The H.A.M.B. is a marvelous site.
They have 10 Forums covering Tech Advice as well as all forms of Cars, Hot-Rods, Art, Events, etc. This is also a great place for Old Hot-Rod movies & photos.
They also have Classifieds, H.A.M.B O'Dex (where Services & Offerings are posted) and H.A.M.B. Alliance (a Membership group offering several benefits and where vendors offer discounts)
The National Early Ford V8 Club has some great sections:
Car Codes Complete for 32-53 Ford-Mercury-Lincoln (downloadable)
Grill Line Drawings & Emblems Identify any Ford-Mercury-Lincoln or Commerical by its grille.
Henry's V8s Photos, articles, stories & info about Henry Fords early flathead engines. Some are quite technical & interesting.
(When these get old or too numerous they will go into the Archives)
Flat Tappet Engine Oils ..................... The OIL articles here are VERY important to us as modern oils are DEATH to our flat tappet lifters and cams!
Engine Oils ........................................ With this said: Almost all auto parts stores today carries Oil for ATVs.
Many of these oils are rated "SJ", which is fine for flat tappets (the "J" is the critical letter)
Just check the Rating on the can - anything ABOVE "J" is NO GOOD! (don't use SK-SL-SM-SN)
Gas, Ethanol Alternatives ....................Are other types of fuels practical? What's the story?
Engine Restoration ..............................This has a section devoted to Flaheads & Model "A"s
Lost Lobe Chronicles .........................What happened (to my cam)? What can I do to prevent it?
Oil Filter Efficiency ...............................The SAE paper summarizes the test results with the following conclusions: "Abrasive engine wear can be
substantially reduced with an increase in filter single pass efficiency. Compared to a 40µ filter, engine wear
was reduced by 50% with 30µ filtration. Likewise, wear was reduced by 70% with 15µ filtration." "Controlling the
abrasive contaminants in the range of 2 to 22µ in the lube oil is necessary for controlling engine wear."
"The micron rating of a filter, as established in a single pass efficiency type test, does an excellent job in
indicating the filter's ability to remove abrasive particles in the engine lube oil system."
Engine Oil & Filtration Systems .........Good advice to make your engine last longer.
The Best Penetrating Oil .....................It turns out a 50-50 mix of ATF & Acetone worked better than ALL the popular & expensive Penetrating Oils.
Care of Spray Cans ............................Some really simple procedures will ensure your spray cans work every time! Even after a "long rest".
Turn Signal Installation ........................Signal-Stat has some wiring diagrams that will probably solve the problems.
How do I wire a Signal Stat 900 Wiring diagram for old chrome Clamp-on Turn Signal
Ten Best tools of All Time ...................Some common sense advice
Tips on Photographing Your Car .......This is simple and important, especially if you ever go to sell it.
When are Tubes Necessary ...............Most tires don't require them anymore but you better know when you do need them
Stromberg 97 Carbs ...........................The Oversize Shafts MYTH.
Strombergs for Alky & Nitro .............. All the details on jetting etc.
Old Carburetor Manuals .....................Copies of original rebuilding manuals-several types, including Holleys & the "Tea Pot" Merc-Lincoln 4000 series.
Carburetor Drawings ....................... .Van Pelt Sales offers drawings of all the Flathead Carburetors (and fuel systems) and manuals for most.
Evolution of The Flathead...................Compiled by Fred Mills - with lots of Facts & Photos.
Skinned Knuckles ...............................Jay Leno has 32 Tech-Tips type VIDEOS on his site
Improved Starting & Cooling - Finding Rear-End Ratios
Automotive - Useful "ENGINE related" Formulas & Conversions
In the late 90's Bill B purchased a '37 5 Window Coupe and completely stripped it down and restored it to a 50's type street rod. At that time Hemmings had a flathead forum and he saw all this info from those over the years and decided to start the Techno Site to save it.
What he did was copy all comments without any editing, it has graduated into quite a lifesaver...
the exact link is www.flatheadV8.org. (there is also now a forum site is http://www.flatheadsrus.com/
A wonderful site with lots of DIY/How-To articles & Technical data (much of it from the '90s)
INCREDIBLE! - has at least 80 Serious Subjects. They have a Flatheads R US Forum too.
RoadRunner Engineering has a nice Tech-Tips section
Tech-Tips from the Golden Gate Charter - RG #1
Engine Talk from Red's Headers (originally from the V8 Times)
A mechanic's magazine rich in How-Tos, Tech-Tips & Technical articles.
Back Issures are available. Jay Leno has 32 Videos on his site
Ron talking to Don Garlits at the Pomona Cacklefest.
Please visit http://www.ministeam.com
SORRY THIS ENGINE HAS SOLD OUT.
ONLY 10 WERE MADE IN WHAT IS LIKELY THE LAST BATCH THIS MACHINIST WILL MAKE. This is a working model of a Flat Head V8. The engine overall length is only 15 inches. The block measures only 7 inches. The Engine is 10 inches tall and 7 1/2 inches wide. This engine is hand machined by a master machinist.
This website attempts to preserve an American Legend compiled from a knowledge base collected from over 70 Years of experimenting, modifying, and just plain improving the Ford Flathead V8 - 1932 thru 1953. It has LOTS & LOTS of links & info - INCREDIBLE!
Webrodder - Hard core Tech Articles & info - no ads or other fluff - GREAT!
Wilcap-Tech - all about Adaptors, bellhousings, transmissions etc - I.D.s & other valuable identification info.
Speed & Chrome - Custom Steering Wheels made.
Roadsters.com - About 8,000 links to anything imaginable concerning Old Fords & Hot Rods. This Collection of Info gets at least 3,000,000 hits/month!
60th Anniversary Hot Rod Hill Climb Georgetown Colorado 2014
Fast-forward if you want, to check out my friend and fellow V8 club member, Bernie Sawin running his '50 Merc flathead V-8 with one head removed at 09:34. He runs this engine as a display at many of our V-8 Club shows and events and it is always very popular. People are usually amazed at how fast the pistons move, even at a slow idle. At about 1500 RPM they are just a blur. No modifications have been made to this engine whatsoever. The cooling systems and water pumps are completely isolated on each bank of the flathead V8. The right bank of cylinders breathes through the left venturi of the 2-bbl. carb.
You can CALCULATE Power, Speed etc with this Excel Sheet - COOL!
For the Tech-Nuts here: The aerodynamic part of Top Speed uses Velocity CUBED as it is Velocity x Drag (which uses Velocity SQUARED).
There is a site that is cool: You can choose the car & calculate it all!
According to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_(physics) Drag force is proportional to the velocity for a laminar flow and the squared velocity for a turbulent flow
For those who love numbers, engineers, speed freaks, and those who think they have gone too fast at one time or another. This puts Corvette performance in perspective; and this article mentions Lingenfelter twin turbo powered Z06.
Read this thru slowly and try to comprehend the amount of force produced in just under 4 seconds! The last paragraph puts it all into perspective !
There are no rockets or airplanes built by any government in the world that can accelerate from a standing start as fast as a Top Fuel Dragster or Funny Car; and that includes any aircraft launched by a catapult from an aircraft carrier.
Nothing can compare...
DEFINITION OF ACCELERATION...
One top fuel dragster 500 cubic inch Hemi engine makes more horsepower than the first 4 rows of stock cars at the Daytona 500.
It takes just 15/100ths (0.15) of a second for all 6,000+ horsepower(some believe 8,000 HP is more realistic - there are no dynamometers capable of measuring) of an NHRA Top Fuel dragster engine to reach the rear wheels.
Under full throttle, a dragster engine consumes 1-1/2 gallons of nitro methane per second; a fully loaded 747 consumes jet fuel at the same rate with 25% less energy being produced.
A stock Dodge Hemi V8 engine cannot produce enough power to drive the dragster's supercharger. With 3,000 CFM of air being rammed in by the supercharger on overdrive, the fuel mixture is compressed into a near-solid form before ignition.
Cylinders run on the verge of hydraulic lock at full throttle.
At the stoichiometric (stoichiometry: methodology and technology by which quantities of reactants and products in chemical reactions are determined)
1.7:1 air/fuel mixture of nitro methane, the flame front temperature measures 7,050 deg F. (Oxy-acetylene on "cut" is 6,300) Nitro methane burns yellow.
The spectacular white flame seen above the stacks at night is raw burning hydrogen, dissociated from atmospheric water vapor by the searing exhaust gases.
Dual magnetos supply 44 amps to each spark plug. This is the output of an arc welder in each cylinder.
Spark plug electrodes are totally consumed during one pass.
After halfway, the engine is dieseling from compression, plus the glow of exhaust valves at 1,400 deg F.
The engine can only be shut down by cutting the fuel flow.
If spark momentarily fails early in the run, unburned nitro builds up in the affected cylinders and then explodes with sufficient force to blow cylinder heads off the block in pieces or split the block in half.
In order to exceed 300 mph in 4.5 seconds, dragsters must accelerate an average of over 4G's. In order to reach 200 mph well before half-track, the launch acceleration approaches 8G's.
Dragsters reach over 300 miles per hour before you have completed reading this sentence.
Top fuel engines turn approximately 540 revolutions from light to light!
Including the burnout, the engine must only survive 900 revolutions under load.
The redline is actually quite high at 9,500 rpm.
Assuming all the equipment is paid off, the crew worked for free, and for once NOTHING BLOWS UP, each run costs an estimate $1,000.00 per second.
The current top fuel dragster elapsed time record is 4.428 secondsfor the quarter mile (11/12/06, Tony Schumacher, at Pomona , CA ).
The top speed record is 336.15 mph as measured over the last 66' of the run (05/25/05 Tony Schumacher, at Hebron , OH ).
Now, in 2018, they only race 1,000 feet (for "safety"!) and, the HP has gone up to about 10,000 Horsepower.
The speed record is still about 335 mph but the E.T.s have dropped to about 3.64 seconds. Click here for little more current info
Putting all of this into perspective:
You are driving the average $140,000 Lingenfelter 'twin-turbo' powered Corvette Z06!
Over a mile up the road, a top fuel dragster is staged and ready to launch down a quarter mile strip as you pass.
You have the advantage of a flying start.
You run the 'Vette hard up through the gears and blast across the starting line and pass the dragster at an honest 200 mph. The 'tree' goes green for both of you at that instant.
The dragster launches and starts after you. You keep your foot down hard, but you hear an incredibly brutal whine that sears your eardrums; and within 3 seconds, the dragster catches and passes you.
He beats you to the finish line, a quarter mile away from where you just passed him.
Think about it, from a standing start, the dragster had spotted you 200 mph and not only caught, but nearly blasted you off the road when he passed you within a mere 1,320 foot long race course.
... and that, my friend, is ACCELERATION!
This calculator will find the horsepower required for a certain vehicle to reach their top speed (Vmax).
It will graph the results when done.
E10 Ethanol Gasoline From Feb 2010 Running Board
Most of us have heard about the issues of fuel containing ethanol when used in older engines. Here are highlights of several articles on this subject.
First, the ethanol attacks the old style rubber parts in the fuel pump and carburetor. This can cause several different problems.
Secondly, E10 fuel ages rather quickly, especially in a vented gas tank or vented carburetor like we have on older automobiles. This applies to lawn mowers, boat motors, and gas cans too. In this situation, fuel is loosing its freshness in a few weeks. Leave it there for a few months and it gets worse.
Third, the alcohol in E10 ethanol absorbs moisture (water) right out of the air when contained in a vented tank or fuel bowl such as found in vintage cars. The water laden alcohol separates from the gas and settles to the bottom, where it becomes corrosive. The remaining gasoline is loosing octane and is moving toward oxidation.
I understand that a relatively new product has been introduced to address these problems. It is blue “STA-BIL Marine Formula”. The manufacturer says that if this product is added promptly to E10, the fuel will remain fresh for 12 months. The chemicals in the blue STA-BIL, but not the red STA-BIL, address both the oxidation issue and the moisture absorption issue. The red STA-BIL: still works well if the fuel is stored in a sealed container. But this is not the case in the fuel tank of most vintage cars.
Another product for this same problem is “Star Brite Star Tron” Enzyme fuel Treatment.
For much more detailed information about how E10 fuel affects gasoline engines, go to the Star Brite website or phone I 800 327 8583
Ed. Note: Since that time we have found another,possibly better & simpler, additive solution: Carb Defender by Driven Oil
More On Ethanol From May 2011 Running Board
Kettering University in Flint Michigan, formally known as General Motors Institute, has begun a study of ethanol / gasoline motor fuels and their effect on antique engines and fuel systems. Dr. Craig Hoff is a professor in the Engineering Department and is leading the study.
Dr. Hoff said, ”Because ethanol is hydrophilic it will absorb water from the ambient air. In a sealed fuel system, such as on modern vehicles, the ethanol will remain mostly anhydrous. However, in a classis car lacking a sealed system, the fuel can potentially absorb a significant amount of water from the ambient air. It is believed that this water content can increase corrosion in fuel system components.
Ethanol and gasoline will be aged in open test tanks for a period and samples of antique car fuel systems will be placed in these containers to be tested for corrosion.
Until the study is complete, Dr Hoff said classic car owners might want to take a few precautions, such as:
Drain and clean the fuel tank.
Use a fuel tank sealer that is impervious to ethanol.
Keep all screens and filters clean.
Use a fuel tank stabilizer that will protect against ethanol.
I’ll try to follow this study and publish something as it becomes available.
Ed. Note: He was right. The tests & experience of THOUSANDS showed that Ethanol does attack virtually everything in the fuel system. As a result, all new cars (but very few other motor driven machines & tools) use Stainless Steel in their entire fuel systems. Use of Carb Defender or some other additives will fix this.
Discount On Batteries at Voltex By Lamar Hart - From the July 2012 Running Board
As members of the Early Ford V-8 Club, we can save 15% on 6 volt and 12 volt batteries from Voltex Battery, Inc, 4895 Buford Hwy, Norcross, GA 30071
770 448 6021. They keep an inventory of over 10,000 batteries. Just tell them that you are a member of the Early Ford V-8 Club and you would like to have the 15% discount.
For twenty years, I have purchased almost all my antique and modern auto and truck batteries from this firm. And this was before the 15% discount.
Ed. Note: They also ALMOST ALWAYS have what they call "BLEMs", that MAY have some scratches or other marking that prevents them from being sold as new, 1st line batteries. The price is Very LOW - running around $40 exchange in 2017. I have been using them for years & years - a wonderful deal. DickA
25 Automotive Animations That Masterfully Explain How Your Car Works
With these great videos and animations, from Popular mechanics, you'll get the mechanical gist in no time (they would also be great for kids to learn from - maybe even your wife).
No need to read through manuals as thick as a brick to understand the components that make up your car. From 1930s black-and-white clips outlining the basics of your suspension to modern graphics explaining complicated transmissions, these videos will teach you more than you ever knew about how cars are made.
Early Flathead Racing Videos - The Roaring Roadsters & more
From July 2013 TFRB
Vapor Lock Notes:
By Lance Bucky
Georgia Regional Group# 24 Early V-8 Members: I saw this post on a ‘chat room/forum’ that I visit. The post brought back several replies with solutions. I thought these solutions and comments would be of value to the membership. I did further research and added product information to this article. Some of my V-8 buddies were at the V-8 Nats in Tahoe. They can have severe vapor lock issues in the 100 degree heat out west. I
have offered all the solutions I can think of, any other ideas?!!
1) One thing that often gets confused with vapor lock is a poorly vented fuel system. The next time it stops, run and pop the cap. If they hear air rush into the tank; it's a vent issue. I have seen several old vented caps that don't vent right. If the fuel pump doesn't have enough suction, it can't pull through the weak vent and eventually stops moving any fuel. I only mention this because it gives the same symptoms as vapor lock, but is much easier to fix (new cap, clear the mud dobber nest out of the vent line, etc). A pusher pump is a good band-aid
for vapor lock if you are stuck on the road but moving and insulating fuel lines is the real long term fix.
2) The clothespin trick absolutely works. It acts as an insulator, shielding the fuel line from heat. We had a Ford stock car that was prone to vapor lock, my racing partner at the time whipped out the clothespin trick and it worked. Before the feature, he would line them all up the same way on the fuel line just for esthetics. NOTE:
I believe if all the clothes pins were set side by side & very close together then they would act as an insulator keeping the radiate heat from getting to the gas line.
3) A pusher pump. Not sure what kind of pressure they need, but Facet makes a wide variety of little pumps. The range is 2 lbs on up. Use that insulation tube stuff as well. The Facet pump solved my issue though. They used to be about $20 or so at NAPA
4) I use this stuff on fuel and brake lines that pass near heat to keep the fluid cool and heater hoses because
it looks good. It's expensive, but it works very well, and a roll goes a long way. The extra can be sold to your friends to recoup the cost. I seal the ends with heat shrink tubing.
5) Antique car guys run a bit of diesel fuel mixed in. They say it works; I have never tried it. I've also heard of 10% diesel, 90% gas. I'm a big fan of diesel in the gas. Usually a quart in a tank will do the job. Smell the $4.99 fuel injection cleaners. Petroleum distillates; it’s diesel.
MORE INSULATING PRODUCTS
1) Speedway Motors part no.
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fluids, lubricating oils, and fuels.
The dense knitted fiberglass
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loss in hosing, tubes and cables,
providing excellent thermal
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2) Another Product -Vendor- DEI
Engineering Retail Sales-Advance Auto Parts. O’Reilly Auto Parts, Pep Boys, & Summit Aerostyle Pyrojacket Firesleeve available from Speedway Motors Lincoln, Nebraska
½” diameter X 3 foot piece $29.99
SKU: 010405-Heat Shroud is made
from a high temperature rated glass
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outer facing. Same as Heat Sheath
but with the added convenience of
hook & loop closure design along
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of removing one end of connected
wires, cables and hoses, simply
wrap Heat Shroud around whatever
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· Versatility of fitting diameters
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· Fireproof · 1∕2” to 1-1/4” diameters x 3 foot length Sizes: * 010405 - 1/2" to 1-1/4" ID x 3 ft, $35.82
Mar 2005 TFRB
Unsticking a Flatty
This discussion is from information posted on Rumbleseat's Website at : http:llwww.btc-bci.com/-billben1flathead.htm.
Oilcan Harry: I just picked up a 50 flathead for my project. It's complete but stuck. Any hints on un sticking it? I was advised to keep pouring kerosene in the plug holes and be patient. I will be completely rebuilding it. RE: Everyone has their own favorite for penetrating oil. Mine is Marvel Mystery Oil, but others (including kerosene) are probably just as good because the real key is soak 'em often and have more patience than a RE: What about soaking the mill in a molasseslwater mixture bath. This also dissolves rust like you wouldn't believe. Just strip oil panlintakeltiming cover and remove as many parts as possible. Do not leave any Aluminum parts on the engine. Then degrease the block as best as possible so that the mix is not contaminated. I had a very rusty 8BA that I left in a plastic tub of molasses for 2 112 weeks. When removed and hosed off, the engine looked like it had just come out of the foundry and the water jackets were clean enough to eat off !! You can also use the molasses bath to derust other project components Finally, the used molasses are also environmentally friendly and will do plants good if poured into the garden!! What else could you ask for ! I bull waiting for a heifer to come out of Me barn. I RE: Whafs the mix ratio of mo' to H201 This sounds like something I just might / I RE: If it is stuck, you can bet the rings are stuck in the pistons and are not I going to just come loose. Get the engine out, lay it on a big flat surface, pull all accessories, pan and oilpump. Squirt knock loose, not WD-40 and get the kind that has a petro. base, not the water type, around the bottom of the pistons. Use a large prybar and start working the flywheel back and forth with the starter teeth. when you can turn the crank all the way around, its free. You may also have to pull the timing gear off the cam, if the valves are stuck, they also will keep things frommoving. RE: Put the engine on a Engine stand, and turn the engine so you can fill the cylinder with your favorite oil (50% kerosine50% Diesel) leave for awhile maybe days. Then Jims way is one way to go. Or take a big piece of wood place it against the piston. And hit it with the biggest hammer you have :-)
RE: I agree to remove engine. I also agree to liberally soak with your favorite mixture. When trying to turn the flywheel, some of the rods will be in tension and some in compression positions depending on the direction of rotation . Observe for those in tension and use a block of wood about the same size as the bore and a good sized hammer to impact the top of those pistons. Next move the flywheel in the opposite direction so those rods which were in compression are now in a tension mode. Repeat the wood block, heavy hammer action on those in tension. Now go the other way with the flywheel and move back to the original pistons. etc. etc. At first the movement will be very small, but usually, with enough patience and effort you will get it to turn. I also agree with Jim's suggestion to remove the cam gear so you know what you are working on. Good luck. RE: everytime you walk past it while soaking ping it ... find a good solid spot where you wont break anything ang give her a good shot with a maul ... the vibrations will do wonders ...p lease do not hurt the puppy with a hole or crack in same perhaps several small pings in several places
would be better ...
RE: I had a 50 merc motor that had been in a flood and then sat for a long time. Boy, was it stuck. I didn't even hope of saving the pistons. If you can get a ridge reamer in the cylinders to get the ridge out, then try to break the pistons, assuming that they are aluminum. You might not even need to remove the ridge if you expect to break them out anyway. Take off a rod cap that is near the top of the stroke. Go at them from the bottom with a length of pipe or steel rod and the BIG hammer. Once they break you can work them out in pieces. Its no fun but if ll work. RE: I have used PB Blaster for years on stuck engines. this stuff Melts
rust. have never used anything better. as in other posts, patience is very
important if you don't want to do damage. Al RE: After posting that rather large string of other people's posts, it is worth mentioning that Red Hamilton of Red's Headers soaks his flatheads in a barrel of #2(?) diesel before disassembly. I'm sorry I don't know anything about diesel fuel, but #2 seems to be what I recall. That trick is a little bit beyond my tinkering capacity, but if you've got the space and can deal with the waste ... RE: The ratio I used is 1 part molasses to 4 parts water. Pour in your molasses first, then pour in hot water to dissolve the thick syrupy molasses. If ya got seriously rusted stuff, make the mix a little stronger ie: 3 parts water. Lastly, I Just emptied my drum after using this stuff for over a year, so it works for quite a while!! After a while, it also has a tendency to get a bit whiffy so stash the drumlbarrel in a corner of the backyard away from the back door!!!
From April 2005 TFRB
August 2005 TFRB
From January 2004 TFRB
Sept 2004 TFRB
I was taught all you needed to keep an Old Ford going was Baling Wire & a Pliers. Technology has advanced:
Nov 2004 (answers in Dec 2004)
SEPT 2003 TFRB
Better Brakes for '40 Fords
Looking to make that '40 stop better? While the '40 Ford and F-100 brakes appear to be similar, the pick up design has a distinct advantage over its early Ford counterpart because it self-energizes, or helps apply itself. Unlike early Ford brakes, which have an anchor, or pivot point, at the bottom of each shoe, self-energizing brake shoes are hooked together at the bottom by a spring and adjuster. The shoes are held to the backing plate by a pin, spring, and retainer When mounted this way the brake shoes are free to move slightly on the backing plate. When self-energizing brakes are applied, the front brake shoe makes contact with the revolving drum and tries to rotate with it. This wrapping of the front shoe into the drum forces the rear shoe into the drum with increased force. So even though the F-100 and early-Ford brakes are similar in size (11 x 2 inch vs. 12 x 1-3/4 inch ) the difference in braking efficiency is dramatic.
Installing pickup binders on early spindles is a simple task. You will need the drums, hubs and complete backing plate assembly from an F-100; the only additional parts required are new inner bearings and seals.
Early Fords and F-lOOs use the same outer bearings and cups (Timken 09067 bearing, Timken 09195 cup ), but the inner wheel bearings are different. F-l 00 spindles are larger in diameter in the area of the inner bearing, so for this swap a Timken number 14116 bearing required. It has the inside diameter of the early Ford spindle and the outside diameter of the F-100 bearing. The stock F-100 inner cup (Timken 14276) is used along with a Victor seal 49195, or National 450461.
There is one problem with this swap, even though the 14276 has the correct OD for the F-100 hub and the correct ID for the Ford spindle, the fit is not perfect. The early Ford spindles have a larger radius at the base where the inner wheel bearing seats then the replacement bearing's inner race, so when the bearing is installed it will "stick" on that radius and not seat properly and be difficuit to remove from the spindle. The simple fix for this is to radius the bearing race until it slides on the spindle, seats correctly, and slides off easily.
To modify the bearing, seal the rollers off completely with duct tape, leaving only the inner portion of the race exposed. Using a die grinder, gently massage the radius as needed. Once the bearing seats as it should, remove the tape and clean the bearing thoroughly.
Mounting the F-100 backing plates to the early spindles is simple, even the bolt holes line up. The only modification necessary is a small amount of grinding on the top of the spindle to provide clearance for the wheel cylinder. Slide the backing plate on the spindle and mark the area of interference with chalk or felt-tip pen, then use a body grinder to remove material from the spindle until the backing plate fits flush against the mounting flange. If the master cylinder in use is adequate for the early Ford brakes, it will work for the F-100s just as well.
Submitted by Bob Padovano. Taken from Street Rodder publication.
April 2002 TFRB
March 2018 Addendum
I clearly remember a "SCAM" demonstration given to us at my friend's gas station. Mack's Mobil, around 1955 (I was around 16 at the time). A salesman had the roller bearing test machine that pressed a fixed bearing down against a rotating drum (a round piece of hard metal) with a torque wrench to measure the force applied, while submerged in your "regular", the best we could choose, oil.
He pressed it down till it broke the oil film and screeched & smoked quite a lot - we took note of the torque applied when this "oil failure" started. Then, he stopped it and showed us how it had worn away a significant portial of the roller bearing (there was now a much larger area pressing against the drum).
Then, he poured a small bit of his "magic" oil additive into the remaining oil and started over again. This time, no hatter how hard he tried, he could not break the oil film and it "happily" continued rotating with no problems whatsoever.
All the bystanders were "favorably impressed", including my friend, the owner, Mack, and wanted to buy some - I can't for the life of me remember WHICH Miracle Additive he was pimping - PERHAPS it was Rislone.
Anyway, I saw through that right away, (with a larger surface area, the PSI was greatly reduced) and asked him "What would happen you replaced the roller bearing with a new one? He scoffed & said that was a waste of time. Then, Mack asked him, and he repeated it wasn't worth doing.
However, Mack's insistence made him replace the roller and do it again. We found that with a new bearing (now with a very small area and therefore a much higher PSI against the drum) it failed at an even LOWER pressure than the original oil without Rislone! Obviously, Rislone, or whatever the additive was, did NOTHING for the oil's lubrication under pressure - in fact, it was a bit WORSE with Rislone. The salesman was quite embarrassed, quickly packed up his demo & left - I think - never to return.
From Apr 1984 Restoration News
V8 Coils and other ignition troubles
Roadsters.com Lots of cool flathead stuff & links to flathead racing parts.
From Aug 2006 The Crankshaft
(2nd part of an article on Georgia Tags)
From Aug 2006 The Crankshaft
From The Running Board Mar 2005
The Runningboard March 2005
The Runningboard March 2005
Old cars are NOT compatible with today's Gas & Oil - they will DESTROY your fuel system,
your carburetor & your Cam. However, there are Special Oils & Gas Treatments that
will SAVE your car - and even CONDITION it for storage.
Old Car Spring Maintenance Check List...........................Before you pull your car out of the garage, it should have a little TLC.